Volcanoes has the honor of being the very first National Park created in Africa, first gazette in 1925 as a small area intended to protect gorillas from poachers. Today it covers over 50 sq miles, and the Rwandan government recently announced plans to increase its size to 89 sq mi. The park is home to five of the eight volcanoes in Virunga Mountains: Karisimbi, Bisoke, Muhavura, Gahinga and Sabyinyo (all dormant). It was also home base for the primatologist Dian Fossey who is largely credited with saving the mountain gorilla from extinction.
We traveled to Volcanoes National Park for the gorilla safaris and we were not disappointed. The Volcanoes National Park (in conjunction with the Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo and the Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda) is renowned as a haven for the rare and endangered mountain gorilla and golden monkeys.
The drive from Kigali is a little over two hours on a busy but well-maintained road. Our stay was in the beautiful Sabyinyo Silver back Lodge near the park. We booked two treks in case we were unsuccessful on the first try. Our guide picked us up at 6:30 am and we headed to the orientation center not far from the lodge to get into our group of eight and meet our guides. From there another drive over a rough road to enter the park where we got more instructions on how to behave among the gorillas and to hire porters.
These fascinating primates are quite used to tourists and, as such, one can approach to within a metre or so before they move away. The golden monkey is found in the Virunga volcanic mountains of Central Africa, including four national parks: Mgahinga, in south-west Uganda; Volcanoes, in north-west Rwanda; and Virunga and Kahuzi – Biéga, in the eastern Democratic Republic of Congo. It is restricted to highland forest, especially near bamboo. They live in social groups of up to 30 individuals, their diet consisting mainly of bamboo, leaves and fruit, and insects. Due to the gradual destruction of their habitat and recent wars in their limited habitat, the golden monkey is listed as endangered on the IUCN Red List.
Volcanoes National Park appears to be a success story for the local community, a partnership that includes financial support (your permit fees at work). What a well-run operation! Everyone that we met National Park guides, trackers, armed rangers, and porters were friendly, helpful, professional, and knowledgeable. As a suggestion, hire a porter, even if you feel you don’t need the assistance. This employment is an important source of income for their families.
I strongly recommend hiring one or two porters to carry any bags or equipment you take because there is rough terrain going mostly uphill at altitude. In addition, it helps keep local people employed. I found the porters very helpful getting me safely through the muddy uneven track. Our first gorilla trekking tour was medium difficulty which took about 04 and a half hours through undergrowth and steep terrain.
We spent about one hour with the gorillas and it passed too quickly. We returned to the lodge muddy, sweaty, tired, but very happy. Our second gorilla trek was an easy level hike of about 2 hours and we were treated to a great visit with gorillas in an open area. Wear good footwear with ankle support and treaded soles, gaiters (usually available from your hotel), water, hat, sunscreen and maybe take a raincoat.
Don’t forget your camera! Also very important is a medical face mask which is a non-negotiable requirement. Gorillas are endangered and vulnerable to disease, and the authorities are not taking any chances. We had a couple of anti-maskers in our group and the guides respectfully but firmly made them wear masks, constantly directing them to keep the masks on when they occasionally “slipped off”.
If you refuse to wear masks then please don’t go on the gorilla trek because if these animals get infections, then we could lose them forever. It’s better to take the safe route than to assert your personal comfort or political beliefs and risk an irreversible catastrophe.
The hike to her grave is difficult but worthwhile, as it really puts her accomplishments into perspective. And then there’s the golden monkeys. Oh my, they are so entertaining, and this is the easiest of the activities. As for the gorillas, the length and difficulty of your trek depends on the location of your assigned gorilla family (our family was named Amahoro, which means peace). What a thrill to observe them in their natural habitat! It sounds cliché, but if you love wildlife, it really is the experience of a lifetime.
The charge is very reasonable, and believe me, you’ll be grateful for their assistance. One last comment: be prepared for a very bumpy ride to the activity starting point. As our guide Emma said: it’s the best African massage ever!
